Expert tips for growing grape vines

It takes three or four years to train a European grapevine. After that it needs pruning only to improve or maintain grape production. Read on to learn everything you need to know about caring for grape vines.

• Vines can be encouraged to develop canes. They can be trained as cordons. Or they can be let grow more freely on arbors or pergolas.
• To encourage a good root system on a rooted cutting, allow the vine to grow one season without pruning.
• Water well but not excessively, and mist the foliage from time to time, particularly on hot days.
• During the next dormant season remove all but the strongest cane, and prune it back to two or three buds. When growth resumes, remove all but the best-shaped and strongest single shoot. Tie this loosely to a stake, and permit it to develop side shoots.
• Remove suckers from the base, and pinch off all of the low-growing lateral shoots.
• If a head- or cane-trained vine is desired, allow the leader to grow about 25 centimetres (10 inches) above its supporting stake; then pinch it back.

• With a cordon-trained vine, early in the second summer prune back all growth except two of the strongest-growing laterals, or work with the leader shoot and one lateral.
• Tie the chosen shoots along a trellis wire so that they will grow in opposite directions. Let them grow about 45 centimetres (18 inches); then pinch back the tips.
• For a head-trained vine, cut off the top-most fruit-bearing cane at a node, just above the point where you want the head to form.
• Be sure to cut completely through the node. By cutting through the node, you effectively destroy the bud. Remove all laterals below the middle of the trunk as well as the weakest laterals above this point.
• Two to four laterals should be allowed to remain; cut each back to one to four buds.
• As a general rule, leave one bud on a cane that is as thick as a pencil, two on a cane that is as big around as your little finger, three on a cane the size of your index finger, and leave four buds on a thumb-sized cane.
• A cane-pruned vine may have only a single cane with eight to 10 buds at the end of the second summer. If the cane is weak, cut it back to a spur with only two buds.

• The next year, on both head- and cane-trained vines, rub off all suckers from the lower half of the trunk.
• For cordon-trained vines, trim back the most vigorous shoots to 35 to 45 centimetres (14 to 18 inches) long. This will allow weaker shoots to keep pace with the faster-growing ones.
• Remove all shoots from the bottom of the arms. To keep the arms growing straight, tie the strong terminal growths to an upper training wire. If they are allowed to grow without training, they will probably twist around the trellis wire.
• Remove some clusters early so that they do not crowd together, as this can slow formation of the vine.
• By the third season's end, the vines will have achieved their permanent shape and should thereafter be treated as mature vines.

Keep this guide in mind and add grape vines to your garden for a unique and welcoming outdoor space.